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Introduction: This guide is written for those who do need video security and can’t afford costly installation services, or if the CCTV installer is not available in your area – the later is more mutual than one could think. We will cover most mutual security instrumentation types, as it is nearly out of the question to go over such a wide rang of dissimilar security cameras and recording/video processing instrumentation available on the market. I assume anybody giving careful consideration to do-it-yourself CCTV installation has basic noesis of wiring proficiencies and practices. I am not to be kept responsible or liable for damages to the instrumentation due to mishandling or misuse. Remember; for the duration of the installation always recompense attention to safety. Working at heights and using tools may be dangerous, please follow all safety practices. Lets jump right to it now. Planning: First step of any camera installation is to plan camera and monitoring instrumentation locations. When planning for camera emplacements please take in contemplation light condition, never install cameras in low light room pointing straight into the sunny area it will add glare to the picture, even if your camera has back light compensation it will not be enough. Use infrared cameras for very dark conditions and/or B/W cameras with as low LUX number as possible. I am not going to talk about proper instrumentation selection, as this was subject of my last article. Selecting the best possible camera emplacements is not easy, and will directly affect the camera views. Besides light conditions, the distance to the monitoring object is evenly important. There are a good deal of dissimilar types and focal lengths of lenses; your selection will depend on light condition and distance from the camera to the monitoring object. In little rooms around 500sq. ft. cameras with usual 3.6mm lens will have to be OK. Keep in mind that most bullet and board type of cameras come with 3.6mm lens, the dandier the distance to the monitoring object the longer focal length of the lens will be needed. There is no ease way of judging lens selection, you may eider guess or buy professional lens selector tool.. Alternatively you may commence with your lens selection and if necessitated get longer or shorter focal length lens later. Other option as far as lens selection goes, is to use variable focus lens, which is very versatile approach and takes the guess out of the lens selection process. For those who do not recognise what variable focus lens is, it’s fundamentally adaptable focal length lens that will concede to change the focal length within specified range, fore example: 2.6mm – 8mm or 5mm – 50mm. To maximize cameras coverage and get the most out of the CCTV scheme for least amount of cash denigrate number of it by placing cameras in strategic places, unless finish area coverage is needed. Avoid overlapping camera views, do not install them with source of light directly in front of it and do not place infrared cameras pointing at each other to eliminate danger of overexposure. These are the most mutual faults that need to be avoided. After the introductory camera locatings are predetermined, lets look at cable placement. Make sure that it is actually possible and practical to run cable to each location, if running the cable to any camera emplacement is for numerous reason inconceivable opt-out for alternate location. Wiring: The most time consuming and indispensable percentage of any camera installation is wiring. Plan your installation cautiously to minimize cable lengths and insure good quality video signal. Never run cables alongside high power electrical lines, at least 12″ spacing amidst video cable and power lines are recommended. Keep the cable lengths beneath 400ft and use good quality cable, most people take the cable for granted, but it is in truth very essential aspect of any installation. The CCTV system is only as good as it is weakest component. I normally stick with RG59U with power Coleman cable (YES it is US made) at times called Siamese type cable. It is combo cable and will transmit video and power, as an substitute it is occasionally possible to use less highpriced RG6 frequent coax cable with discerned run of 18/2AWG for power. The Siamese cable is less bulky and easer to run, distribution power supply is commended with this type of cable as power will be supplied from mutual place right next to monitor and recording equipment. Using Siamese cable makes for more clean and neat installation, as only one line is required for each camera. Running RG6 cable with distinguished run for power is the likely solution if power outlets are available near each locations. In this case person plug in power furnishes are applied to power them with power cable running as distinguished and independent line to the camera. Both types of cables are available at dvrexperts. When running the cable it is good exercise to leave couple of loops of extra cable at both camera and monitoring locations. This extra length of cable is necessitated if in the future monitoring or emplacement will have to be moved slightly. After the cable is in place, the labor-intensive portion of installation is over, now we may get to the fun percentage of installation. Camera mounting: Most s come with mounting screws and bracket included, attach the bracket with resolute determination and do not forget that in a lot of cases dissimilar brackets than the ones supplied with the cameras could be needed. Attach the camera to the bracket and adjust the position approximately at this time, we will come back to it later. Typical security camera is powered by 12VDC or 24VAC and power input type is screw or push terminals or 2.1mm plug. Power connection will differ for each type of power supply and input style. Most cameras are 12VDC, in this case it is important to observe polarity or you may harm the camera. The power cable has two conductors and in most cases it will be red or white and black cable. Use the red or white for positive and black for negative terminals. If it has screw or push terminals power input connect the cable directly observing polarity, if it is 2.1mm plug, a particular 2.1MM Female DC Plug with Flying Leads have to be connected to the cable again keep attention to polarity. The 24VAC connection is very similar, with one major divergence – polarity is not important. Next step will implicate a lot of particular tools and accessories. We will try to go over installation routine of BNC crimp-on video connector, I will post video demonstration of BNC crimping proficiencies shortly so please check the web internet sites cited in this article often. Steps: BNC connector is on, lets hook it up now and repeat the steps for each camera, if you have purchased 16 camera system you may want to get a lot of coffee first. Monitor and recorder connection: Cameras are on, it is time to make final connections. I will concentered on popular CCTV monitor, standalone DVR recorder and distribution power supply, as this is the most standard and likely solution for most CCTV installations. First we have to install BNC connectors on this side as well – it is time for that coffee again. It is good idea to make room for monitor and recorder now and set up a good deal of type of desk, shelf or rack to place all the instrumentation on. We need the monitor and recorder in place so we may determine proper power supply location. Power supply ought to be mounted within couple of feet from the DVR video inputs. After power supply is secured discerned the power conductors from the Siamese cable, and run it to power supply. Like we did with the cameras if 12VDC power is used, we need to watch the polarity, each terminal on the power supply is marked, so there will have to not be any doubt. Make sure the power supply is not plugged in to the power outlet yet. Connect video cables to the DVR video in ports. We need one video cable to connect the DVR with the monitor, if you do not have one you may cut piece of Siamese cable discerned the power conductors from it and install BNC connectors on both ends, you now have the cable. Connect the DVR monitor out port to monitor video in. We are closely ready to power up everything; there is only one more thing to take care before we do that. We need to protect the instrumentation from power spikes by plugging it into power conditioner or better yet, buttery backup unit. If the installation emplacement is experiencing frequent power outages, the backup unit is strongly recommended. To extend the backup time only plug the DVR and camera power supply to the backup unit and the monitor to regular power strip, this way if we do loose power for galore time the DVR and cameras are still functioning as normal while monitor is off. Turning off monitor will not affect DVR and cameras in any way; it is actually good habit to turn the monitor of if not used to extend it is life. Power on and final adjustment: Yes… we are now ready to power it up for the firstborn time, if this is your initial installation it may be nerve-racking experience. Start with turning the cameras power supply on, turn the monitor on as well followed by DVR system. The stand-alone DVR, after self-test will show cameras or setup menu on original power up depending on your model. To setup the DVR refer to the manual for proper settings. Go over each camera view to determine if the view is in truth what you want, hardly ever it will be without further and added readjustments. To the right way and effortlessly adjust the positions, the test monitor will be very handy if not necessary tool. Go to each camera emplacement and connect the test monitor to adjust the position to your preferences, if satisfied secure camera bracket adjustment screws – we will not go back to this camera anymore. Conclusion: Congratulations! You have just finished your most likely, very initial installation of CCTV system. Visit our store fore more selective information on surveillance cameras, DVR recorders, tools and accessories.
1075 of 1085 people found the following review helpful. 223 of 226 people found the following review helpful. Keep in mind that if you are shooting a canon DSLR (as I am) this 50mm lens actually behaves as an 80mm lens, so it isn’t that terribly wide. The fact that it is functionally 80mm can make framing shots a bit difficult. This is definitely a secondary lens and really isn’t that appropriate for a “walking around lens.” At least it isn’t for me, as I tend to prefer shooting wider angles. If you have some sort of mishap with your camera, like dropping it, you can likely kiss this lens goodbye. I have fortunately never had to test this, but I imagine that it wouldn’t stand up to any sort of impact very well. The flimsiness of the build is very obvious when compared to some of the older canon lenses. MY 35-135mm USM is about 10 years old, and has a metal chassis. These lenses can often stand drops and still operate. This is not so for the 50mm mark II. Since everything but the glass is bare bones, the autofocus isn’t terribly fast. If all you have ever worked with is USM lenses, you will have to be ready to take a little more time focusing. If you have experience with the 18-55mm kit lens, you will find that it is about the same. All that being said, you are probably wondering why I rated this lens at four stars instead of, say, three. That’s because there are a lot of nice features to this lens that far outweigh the bad. If you have never used a prime lens before (meaning, a “fixed” lens that doesn’t zoom) then you are in for a pleasant surprise. It is far more expensive to build a quality zoom than a quality prime, thus decent zooms tend to cost a mint. Also, zooms are only at their best in the middle of their range. The 50mm doesn’t move, and so has been optimally designed for its focal length. Shots are sharp at all aperture ranges; shots at medium apertures (f8-f11) will blow your mind. Really. Search the web for some images made with this lens in those ranges and you will buy it. Resistance is futile. Canon may have skimped on the body, but they didn’t cut corners on the glass. It is excellent. The wide aperture (f1.8) is really outstanding as well. I had never really worked with a lens this fast before because, frankly, I hadn’t been able to afford to. You dispense with your flash and handhold at levels that you would not have thought possible. And once you get away from flash use during night/lowlight photography, you will see some truly amazing colors that flash typically obliterates. The fact that it is fixed, and not too wide, forced me to be a little more creative than I normally would when framing shots. When I went to Burma this year, I left my principal lens at my hotel, and didn’t realize it until I was far away, so I was forced to use the 50mm as my principal lens. Some of my favorite shots of my whole trip actually come from that day, as I was forced to come to terms with the focal length limitations of the lens. And finally, there is the price. A lens with glass this good that costs less than a filter setup, or a dozen 8×10 prints? How can you say no? Unless you have the bucks to spend on the f1.4 or the Mark I, this lens belongs in every EOS shooters bag. See all 1813 customer reviews… |





